Re: 2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic

[sinistr]

Oh how I hate this f'n jeep. Brand new radiator, in the jeep for a month, starts to leak. Last week it ran for 45 minutes in the driveway, today its throwing codes and stalling. It started to misfire and shutoff. It wouldn't restart until I cleared the codes. Checked the fuel discharge at the port(little to no pressure ) It would idle but stumble and die if I fever it up. Seemed like it was running out of fuel. So I drop the tank and replace, the pump and filter. It fired up, ran for a few seconds and then stumbled and died. I had to walk away.
As much as I love cars, sometimes I can't stand them. Right now I want to sell the Jeep, the Nova, and the Charger and be done with this bs.
Thank you for letting me vent, I know you guys understand.

[RTCHAS]

I feel your pain i have little to no time for BS it's depressing to find a problem like the oil leak I have on the Ramcharger from the rear of the motor? i did the same thing as you and just walked away! I hope it's not the rear main but til I drop the inspection cover and look I can't tell ! Ugh it will sux if I have to pull the motor all over again. You can really lose interest in it fast when sh%t go's south.

[Orangepeel815]

Sorry to here about the jeep . I feel the same way You fix something and something else happens it drives me nuts that why I just sold my jeep before I went really nuts.

[moddog]

I'm wondering if you have something in your fuel line, maybe you should try blowing it out. The Ramcharger that I had would do that and it was the fuel filter. I had one of those fine mesh glass filter on it. Seeing that you changed your pump and filter I would check the fuel line.

[sinistr]

It's got good fuel pressure at the line now. I'm thinking maybe from it heating up and cooling down multiple times that it may have loosened up the intake manifold bolts and is causing a vacuum leak. I don't hear a vacuum leak but it could still be there. On the 4.0l 6 the intake is right above the exhaust manifold and they share some of the same mounting bolts. I did find the coolant leak, it's coming from around the bung for the lower transmission cooler line in the radiator.

Chas I hope that your leak is just something simple like the pan bolts loosing up from expansion and contraction.

I've got a Baptism to attend today so no car playing, maybe that's a good thing.

[RTCHAS]

It's got good fuel pressure at the line now. I'm thinking maybe from it heating up and cooling down multiple times that it may have loosened up the intake manifold bolts and is causing a vacuum leak. I don't hear a vacuum leak but it could still be there. On the 4.0l 6 the intake is right above the exhaust manifold and they share some of the same mounting bolts. I did find the coolant leak, it's coming from around the bung for the lower transmission cooler line in the radiator.

Chas I hope that your leak is just something simple like the pan bolts loosing up from expansion and contraction.

I've got a Baptism to attend today so no car playing, maybe that's a good thing.

Those manifold bolts could do it what codes did it trip?
I hope it's the pan I had trouble getting the pan to fit right (thank you china) I have to pull cover to get a good look at where it is from it isn't pissing out but after I drove it and it was Hot I had some drop's coming from the back and it isnt from top side I checked.

[sinistr]

Figured it out. When the oil pump drive housing is removed, the cam and crank position sensors need to be resynchronized or it will try and fire the wrong cylinders at the wrong time. Hence the cyl#3 coil code. I followed the procedure, remove the coil rail, plug#1,cam position sensor, and oil pump drive. Bring the engine up to TDC,reinsert the housing making sure that it doesn't rotate.Then put the rest of the parts on and fire it up. Good to go.

[RTCHAS]

Ahhh good find ! That will drive you nutz for sure!